Fall is here, and collections of white dresses are sprouting up in stores like mushrooms after a rain shower in many a mall across Israel. Even though it’s probably the least practical color for holiday festivities, many of us will end up wearing a white outfit during the various holidays of the Hebrew month of Tishrei. White has been associated with ritual practices, holiness, purity, and prestige since the dawn of history, and it has become an inseparable part of this month’s “uniform.”
The color white has accompanied humanity from its very beginning, and it has come a long way from adorning cave paintings to being part of the latest fashion trends.
In the beginning, there was white, black – and red
Human society has always had a thing for bright colors. The first three colors which humans succeeded in producing were white, black, and red. The first evidence of this can be seen in the Lascaux cave system in France, which is dated to the Upper Paleolithic period. The images of horses, bulls, and celestial bodies were painted by hand, with natural materials. The color white, incidentally, was generally produced from stones, bones, and clams.
A few thousand years later, in the ancient world, the color white symbolized a high social stature, due among other things, to the raw color of cotton and the wealth required to keep it clean.
During the Middle Ages, white was tied not only to purity but also death. In Christian works of art, the color white was often used to paint resurrected souls when depicting the second coming of Jesus. But then a turning point occurred which changed the color’s status: The means of producing the color black were slowly made less and less expensive, meaning that this color was no longer restricted to the aristocracy alone. As black became cheaper, the color white gradually lost its morbid symbolism. Black became associated with seriousness, honor, and death, while white was dedicated to purity, holiness, and innocence.
The wedding march
In modern times, coloring techniques greatly improved and white became a far brighter color than in the past. It also became more common and popular – first among the European aristocracy and then, with improved manufacturing techniques, also among the rest of the population.
One of the most significant turning points in white’s popularity came with the white bridal dress worn by Queen Victoria (1819-1901). Throughout history, brides commonly wore a ceremonial and practical dress on their wedding day, the sort that could also be worn on regular holidays or Sabbath days. But Victoria’s dress turned the wedding dress into a one-time item, an article of clothing meant to amaze – a true show-stopper.
Thus, when Queen Victoria married Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha, she stunned everyone with a pure white dress, meant particularly and exclusively for her wedding celebration, and which has since become a must-have for any bride. The great success of the dress is of course also tied to white symbolizing purity – including virginity.
An outfit for the High Holy Days
And what about the Jewish wardrobe? In biblical times, the priests in the Holy Temple wore white. The High Priest wore a number of uniforms while doing his work, some of them gilded and very expensive, but when he performed the special rituals of Yom Kippur, he wore white. White was tied to happiness, and Jewish women customarily wore white on Tu B’Av and on Yom Kippur, as well as on other holidays and Shabbat.
In the Ashkenazic Jewish tradition, a custom developed that men should wear a “kittel” – a special article of clothing worn by Ashkenazic Jews on the High Holy Days, and which is entirely white. The kittel was a kind of simple, white robe with no frills which was tied together with a white waistband. Before being adopted for the Jewish holidays, it was worn for meaningful events, such as under the wedding canopy and when the dead were being buried – men were often buried in their kittels.
It was customary in some Jewish communities to wear the kittel on Yom Kippur and sometimes also on Rosh Hashanah. Others took care to wear it twice a year – during the High Holy Days and the Passover Seder. Therefore, Nachum Zitter, director of Information Services at the National Library, recommends taking care to clean the kittel between these events to prevent chametz [unleavened grain products forbidden on Passover] from accumulating on the clothing. And even then – not all men are supposed to wear this ceremonial article of clothing. In some communities, all married men wear it while in others – only those with communal religious roles such as the gabbai (treasurer or steward), chazan (cantor), and the blower of the shofar (ram’s horn) wear a white kittel.
How did the kittel become such a multi-purpose item, which we can use both in times of great happiness and sadness? The kittel had unique manufacturing conditions which linked it with the shrouds worn by the dead. Thus, it customarily did not contain pockets, because Jews take nothing with them to the grave, and it contained no decorations or knots to maintain its simplicity. “My grandfather had two kittels,” Nachum Zitter recalled. “And you must wonder – why does one need two kittels? After all, you only die once. Except he was the chazan in the synagogue, and he would end the prayer for Rosh Hashanah sweating a great deal, so he took care to have a clean kittel for the second day of Rosh Hashanah. And so it was that he left behind an additional kittel after he passed, which was very rare.”
Did it hurt when you fell from heaven?
Some claim that the kittel was already worn in the time of the Mishnah, as a white sheet or robe worn special for Shabbat. The Midrash Eichah Rabbah describes an incident in which a Roman mocks the Jewish Shabbat garments which seem to last forever, as they are only worn once a week.
The Jerusalem Talmud describes a custom of wearing white clothes on Yom Kippur. It attributes this custom even then to the duality of the High Holy Days themselves – the happiness mixed with sadness and fear of God’s judgment, and how wearing white is an expression of feelings of security and happiness despite Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur being seen as the Time of Judgement:
“What nation is as this nation? The custom of the world is that a man who knows he is being judged wears black and wraps [himself in it] … but Israel is not so, but rather wear white and wrap in white … and are happy, knowing that the Holy One, Blessed Be He does them miracles.”
(Jerusalem Talmud, Rosh Hashanah, 1.3)
The connection between ceremonial white clothing and happiness slowly took on a more sober meaning in Medieval Europe. Rabbi Mordechai Ben Hillel Ashkenazi brings another reason for the custom in the name of the Maharam:
“And another reason is because on a Yom Tov all are happy, and they wear a sargenes [another term for kittel] which is the garb of the dead, and they remember the day of death, and his heart will not become haughty within him.”
In other words, despite the happiness which comes with a holiday, a person must wear shrouds to remind themselves of the day of their death and the fleeting nature of life. This led to the development of another reason to wear white: to confuse Satan by adopting an angel-like appearance, since Jews fast on Yom Kippur and are therefore already in the process of behaving somewhat like angels, incapable of sin.
“There was no specific garb like the kittel among Mizrachi Jews,” explains Nachum Zitter. “But there was still a widespread custom to wear white. The Mizrachi Jews were greatly influenced by the Kabbalah, which is very favorable towards wearing white cotton clothing. There is also a symbolic connection to Rachav the prostitute who hid the spies inside cotton [in the Book of Joshua]. So, the kabbalistic context greatly influenced Mizrachi Jews, and the custom gained further influence and spread.”
White clothing also plays a part in modern Israel and in today’s Jewish communities worldwide. The color white is often worn by members of kibbutzim on the festival of Shavuot, a holiday symbolizing a connection to the land and agricultural crops. The custom of wearing white is also passed on to new generations in children’s literature, as in the book Yael and Her New White Dress, whose target audience is the Haredi community.
This year, despite all we have been through, we will once again sit round the holiday table and will nevertheless wear white – a color which symbolizes goodness, purity, something greater and more wonderful than ourselves, showing that death and life are intertwined.
May it be that this time around, this year and its curses will end, and the next year and its blessings will begin.